The basic steps of my repotting in sphagnum:
- rinse sphagnum dry under hot running water
- rinse with water by osmosis (or distilled or rain water)
- wring strong
- break to pieces by about 1-2 cm giving volume and air
- put a first layer of sphagnum in the vessel
- place the plant
- fill the jar without crushing too much
- free the holes on the bottom
- water in small doses only when it is well dry
- fertilize in small doses
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Phalaenopsis schilleriana, orchid species,
sphagnum moss repotting
(picture of 4 October 2012)
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Some orchids grow much better and faster if potted in sphagnum-moss, this is because in the wild they live immersing their roots in soft moss pillows. Sphagnum has the qualities, not indifferent, to produce some antifungal substances, stabilize the pH and maintain good moisture. Dry sphagnum (dehydrated) can be found at nurseries specializing in orchids or, though rarely, you can find the live sphagnum. To repot our Phalaenopsis seedlings, freshly deflasked, keiki or the more common mini-phalaenopsis, you normally use dry sphagnum . In nature there are many different species of moss but to grow orchids what is important is not the species but the quality of fibers: the best fiber of sphagnum is the bigger one because it will stay more elastic and compact so less compressed in the vessels, lets more air circulating and promotes drying of the roots of fundamental importance for all orchids, especially for epiphytic species such as Phalaenopsis.
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Dry sphagnum-moss |
Another point in favor of our repotting orchids, young or small, only in sphagnum is that this substrate is like a sponge, when you give water to the plant this is absorbed almost immediately and the roots are not "wet" but very humid, humidity is maintained longer and higher than with other materials (such as bark), which helps the growth of roots. On the other hand you have to be very careful not to pour too much water in the pot because the ability of moss to absorb is huge, the more you put the more it takes. You should never soak the pot or roots of the plant would remain too wet for too long, triggering fungal diseases and rotting of any kind! Absolutely do not have to water by diving, but just pour water in small doses. It is also important to adjust with fertilizer, can not soak or rinse the salts from roots, they tend to accumulate, so use a very low concentration and not very often, maybe a tenth of the normal dose no more than once a month and
only during the active growth of the plant.
Ok, now to the action!
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Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
early stage, adding of the first
sphagnum layer |
First of all rinse sphagnum under warm running water, you should use a fine weave strainer to avoid losing half of the moss. If your tap water is a bit limestone is necessary to rinse with soft water such as filtered by reverse osmosis or distilled water (the one for the iron!) or rain water is fine. After washed sphagnum wringing strong to release excess water. At this point we are left with a damp and compressed ball of sphagnum moss that is not very good ... must fray it! To fill the pots is better to tear the sphagnum by your hands, it into pieces about 1-2 inches long, giving volume and air. Once ready put a little sphagnum in the jar you want to use, do not crush it, only position it properly so that no big holes remain inside. Are the roots that choose the pot, you must only help them! Fix the plant so that the collar is more or less at the same level of the edge of the pot and begin to add another sphagnum around the roots, always placing it well.
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Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
intermediate stage, placement of the orchid inside the pot |
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Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
intermediate stage, top up the pot after placement of the orchid |
Now the work is almost complete, just missing a critical step, clear the holes on the bottom of the pot to allow proper air flow!
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Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
final stage, free the holes to help air movement on roots |
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